Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
Eighty-two domes, a courtyard inlaid with floral marble, and one of the largest hand-knotted carpets ever made. Open to visitors outside prayer times; a dress code applies.
01 · Emirate
The capital, at its own pace
The federal capital and by far the largest emirate, reaching from the corniche and the islands of the Gulf to the oases of Al Ain and the dunes of the Empty Quarter. It holds the country's grandest mosque and its most ambitious museums, and it is still the emirate where you can drive an hour and find nobody.
Getting there
Zayed International Airport; about 90 minutes by road from Dubai, with intercity coaches roughly every 30 minutes.
When to go
November to March for the corniche and the desert. The Formula 1 weekend falls in the closing month of the season.
Good to know
The emirate covers roughly five-sixths of the country's land area, so treat Al Ain and Liwa as separate trips rather than day stops.
Cities & areas
The federal capital, built on an island and read best from its corniche.
The garden city inland, and the country's only World Heritage inscription.
Eight kilometres of waterfront, with a public beach along most of it.
The capital's cultural district, and a turtle-nesting beach.
The entertainment island: a Formula 1 circuit and the parks around it.
A wildlife reserve island in the western Gulf, reached by boat or air.
An inhabited pearling island with archaeology going back millennia.
Abu Dhabi's western region: oases, salt flats and the Empty Quarter.
Signature places
Eighty-two domes, a courtyard inlaid with floral marble, and one of the largest hand-knotted carpets ever made. Open to visitors outside prayer times; a dress code applies.
Jean Nouvel's dome filters daylight into a rain of light over galleries that hang world civilisations side by side rather than in national rooms.
A working presidential palace opened to the public, with a library of Arab scholarship and a great dome 37 metres across.
Part of the country's first UNESCO World Heritage listing: 147,000 date palms watered by falaj channels that have run for millennia.
The edge of the largest continuous sand desert on earth, where dunes rise above 300 metres near Moreeb Dune.
See the place
Liwa, Abu Dhabi
The edge of the Empty Quarter
0s / 28s
Experiences here
Drive south past Liwa to where the dunes stop being scenery and start being terrain. Moreeb rises more than 300 metres and the silence at the top is total.
Arrive as the courtyard marble is still cool. Eighty-two domes, a carpet woven in one piece, and light that changes the building every twenty minutes.
Twelve chapters of human history under a dome that rains light. Two hours is the minimum; the sea-facing galleries are the ones people miss.
Shaded paths between 147,000 date palms, fed by channels engineered thousands of years before the pumps. Part of the country's first UNESCO listing.
Tickets
Free for under-18s
Includes the House of Knowledge
Where to stay
Ten minutes from Louvre Abu Dhabi, on a protected beach where hawksbill turtles nest between March and June.
Free cancellation · 4 rooms left · 2,841 reviews
On the eight-kilometre corniche promenade, with the public beach across the road and the old souk behind.
Free cancellation · 11 rooms left · 1,943 reviews
Twelve tents at the edge of the Empty Quarter. No generators after ten, which is the entire point of the place.
Non-refundable · 2 rooms left · 612 reviews
Eat & drink
Harees, madrouba and camel machboos, served the way it is served at home — on the floor, from one dish.
Tours that include it
One country, all seven emirates, anticlockwise from the capital so the mountains and the east coast come last.
The mosque before the crowds, the Louvre in the afternoon light, and the falaj channels of Al Ain on day three.
Paced for children: one big day, one slow day, and never more than forty minutes in the car.
What's on
Early December
The closing round of the Formula 1 season at Yas Marina, run into the dusk, with concerts on the same tickets.
Grandstand and general-admission tickets are sold by the race promoter, and the concerts are included in the race ticket.
November to March
A months-long heritage and culture festival in Al Wathba, with national pavilions, souks and a nightly fireworks record attempt or two.
Entry to the festival grounds is free. Individual rides, shows and food inside are paid at the stand.
December
A camel beauty and heritage festival deep in the Western Region, where the judging criteria are older than the country.
Entry is free. It is a working competition rather than a show, and the days start early.
July
Held in the heat on purpose, because that is when the dates come in. Competitive categories, and the best khalas you will ever eat.
Entry is free. The competitions and the market run through the morning, before the heat.
People who were there
@dunes.after.rain
Moreeb at first light. Nobody else on the whole ridge for an hour.
Moreeb Dune, Liwa · #VisitUAE
@quietmuseums
Went for the dome, stayed four hours for the manuscripts.
Louvre Abu Dhabi · #LouvreAbuDhabi
@eightytwodomes
Arrived at 09:00 for the marble before it warms up. Worth every alarm.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque · #GrandMosque
Continue the journey
Where the record is the baseline
The country's reading room
Small emirate, long shoreline
The quiet one
Every emirate is within a day's drive of every other.