Into the Empty Quarter
Drive south past Liwa to where the dunes stop being scenery and start being terrain. Moreeb rises more than 300 metres and the silence at the top is total.
The capital sits on an island joined to the mainland by bridges, which is why it feels ordered rather than sprawling: a corniche along one edge, the mosque and the palace inland, and the cultural district on Saadiyat next door. It is the emirate's administrative centre and the quietest of the country's big cities after dark.
About ninety minutes from Dubai on the E11 in clear traffic, and Abu Dhabi's own airport is twenty-five minutes from the centre.
24.4539, 54.3773
Abu Dhabi
Drive south past Liwa to where the dunes stop being scenery and start being terrain. Moreeb rises more than 300 metres and the silence at the top is total.
Arrive as the courtyard marble is still cool. Eighty-two domes, a carpet woven in one piece, and light that changes the building every twenty minutes.
Twelve chapters of human history under a dome that rains light. Two hours is the minimum; the sea-facing galleries are the ones people miss.
What's on
Early December
The closing round of the Formula 1 season at Yas Marina, run into the dusk, with concerts on the same tickets.
Grandstand and general-admission tickets are sold by the race promoter, and the concerts are included in the race ticket.
November to March
A months-long heritage and culture festival in Al Wathba, with national pavilions, souks and a nightly fireworks record attempt or two.
Entry to the festival grounds is free. Individual rides, shows and food inside are paid at the stand.
December
A camel beauty and heritage festival deep in the Western Region, where the judging criteria are older than the country.
Entry is free. It is a working competition rather than a show, and the days start early.
Cities