Into the Empty Quarter
Drive south past Liwa to where the dunes stop being scenery and start being terrain. Moreeb rises more than 300 metres and the silence at the top is total.
Al Dhafra is the western half of Abu Dhabi and most of the country's land area — date oases at Liwa, salt flats and gravel plain, and then the dune belt of the Empty Quarter, the largest sand desert on earth. It is where the country stops being a coastline, and the distances are real: plan fuel and daylight.
Two and a half hours from Abu Dhabi city to Liwa. Beyond the oases the tracks need a guide and a second vehicle.
23.6560, 53.7060
Abu Dhabi
Drive south past Liwa to where the dunes stop being scenery and start being terrain. Moreeb rises more than 300 metres and the silence at the top is total.
Arrive as the courtyard marble is still cool. Eighty-two domes, a carpet woven in one piece, and light that changes the building every twenty minutes.
Twelve chapters of human history under a dome that rains light. Two hours is the minimum; the sea-facing galleries are the ones people miss.
What's on
Early December
The closing round of the Formula 1 season at Yas Marina, run into the dusk, with concerts on the same tickets.
Grandstand and general-admission tickets are sold by the race promoter, and the concerts are included in the race ticket.
November to March
A months-long heritage and culture festival in Al Wathba, with national pavilions, souks and a nightly fireworks record attempt or two.
Entry to the festival grounds is free. Individual rides, shows and food inside are paid at the stand.
December
A camel beauty and heritage festival deep in the Western Region, where the judging criteria are older than the country.
Entry is free. It is a working competition rather than a show, and the days start early.
Regions