Burj Khalifa
At 828 metres, the tallest structure ever built. Observation decks on levels 124, 125 and 148; sunset slots sell out first.
02 · Emirate
Where the record is the baseline
The city that turned a creek into a trade route and a trade route into a skyline. The tallest building on earth stands twenty minutes from wooden abras still crossing the water for a coin, and an hour from a mountain enclave with its own dam and wadis.
Getting there
Dubai International and Al Maktoum airports; the Metro links the airport and the main sights on two driverless lines.
When to go
October to April for the outdoors. The shopping festival runs across the turn of the year; the racing carnival ends in March.
Good to know
A Nol card covers metro, tram, bus and the public abra. Weekend brunch is a city institution and worth booking ahead.
Cities & areas
Two cities on one creek: the old banks, and the towers built behind them.
Dubai's wind-tower quarter, on the Bur Dubai bank of the creek.
The trading bank of the creek: gold, spice and the fish market at dawn.
The tower, the fountain and the boulevard around them.
Dubai's warehouse district, and where its galleries actually are.
A built island in the shape of a palm, with a beach on every frond.
Dubai's mountain exclave, in the Hajar foothills.
Signature places
At 828 metres, the tallest structure ever built. Observation decks on levels 124, 125 and 148; sunset slots sell out first.
A steel torus wrapped in Arabic calligraphy with no internal columns — the poetry on the façade is the structure.
Coral-and-gypsum lanes, wind towers, the spice and gold souks on the far bank, and abras that have never stopped running.
A mountain exclave 90 minutes inland: a turquoise dam for kayaking, mountain-bike trails and a heritage village.
The country's first national park, protecting Arabian oryx and gazelle across roughly a tenth of the emirate.
See the place
Dubai Creek
Where the city started
0s / 24s
Experiences here
828 metres, and from level 148 the desert and the sea are both in the same frame. Sunset slots go first, so book the day you decide.
A wooden boat, a bench, a coin, and the oldest working commute in the city. Spice souk on one bank, gold on the other.
Turquoise water held between bare Hajar rock, ninety minutes from the skyline. Go early: the wind picks up after eleven.
Inside the country's first national park, where oryx are the reason the fence exists. Low-impact camps, and a sky with no city in it.
Steam, black soap, a scrub that removes a week, then mint tea and nowhere to be. The oldest wellness technology in the region.
Tickets
Timed entry — sunset slots are limited
Sells out most weekends
Where to stay
A restored courtyard house in the coral-and-gypsum lanes, ninety seconds from the abra station.
Free cancellation · 3 rooms left · 1,288 reviews
Rooms facing the fountain, and a lift that reaches the mall without going outside in August.
Free cancellation · 6 rooms left · 4,102 reviews
Cabins above the wadi, ninety minutes from the skyline and about six degrees cooler in summer.
Free cancellation · 5 rooms left · 508 reviews
Eat & drink
Choose from the ice, tell them how you want it, eat it fifteen minutes later beside the water.
Breakfast in the old town: balaleet, chebab with date syrup, and karak that keeps arriving.
Tours that include it
One country, all seven emirates, anticlockwise from the capital so the mountains and the east coast come last.
Sand, then rock, then reef — the three landscapes of the country in the order that makes sense.
Paced for children: one big day, one slow day, and never more than forty minutes in the car.
What's on
December to January
The retail festival that reshaped the region's winter season: city-wide sales, nightly fireworks and open-air concerts.
Entry to the festival and the city-wide sales is free. The concerts and the ticketed attractions inside it are sold separately.
Late March
The richest day in world racing, at Meydan, and the closing night of a carnival that runs from January.
Enclosures and hospitality are sold by the racecourse, and the raceday fills long before the date.
People who were there
@slowgulf
The abra still costs less than a coffee and it is the best ride in the city.
Dubai Creek · #DubaiCreek
@hattaearly
Ninety minutes from Downtown and the water is this colour.
Hatta Dam · #Hatta
Continue the journey
The capital, at its own pace
The country's reading room
Small emirate, long shoreline
The quiet one
Every emirate is within a day's drive of every other.