Deira

Deira is the northern bank of the creek and the commercial half of old Dubai — the gold souk, the spice souk, and a wholesale fish market that is at its best before seven in the morning. It is dense, loud and entirely unposed, and the dhows still tie up along the wharfage with cargo stacked on the quay.

What marks it out

• The gold souk, and the spice souk behind it
• The wholesale fish market, before seven
• The dhow wharfage, cargo stacked on the quay