Museum of Islamic Civilization
A restored souk on the creek holding manuscripts, astrolabes and a gold-thread kiswah from the Kaaba, under a blue-tiled dome.
03 · Emirate
The country's reading room
Named Cultural Capital of the Arab World, and the only emirate with coasts on both the Arabian Gulf and the Gulf of Oman. Its museums are not a side attraction here — they are the point, and they are unusually good.
Getting there
Sharjah International Airport, or 30 to 45 minutes from central Dubai outside peak hours.
When to go
November for the international book fair; the cooler months for the east coast and the desert centre.
Good to know
Sharjah is a dry emirate: no alcohol is served or sold anywhere in it.
Cities & areas
The country's museum estate, walkable, and dry.
Sharjah, but on the Gulf of Oman — an exclave on the other coast.
The restored old town, and the largest heritage project in the region.
Sharjah's central desert, and 130,000 years of human occupation.
Signature places
A restored souk on the creek holding manuscripts, astrolabes and a gold-thread kiswah from the Kaaba, under a blue-tiled dome.
The largest heritage restoration project in the Gulf, returning the old town to its 1950s footprint street by street.
Evidence of human presence going back tens of thousands of years, in a desert of fossil dunes and Bronze Age tombs.
The emirate's east-coast enclaves: a deep-water bay for diving, and the oldest mangrove stand in the country.
Year-round exhibitions across restored courtyard houses, and the biennial that put the emirate on the art-world map.
See the place
Sharjah
Reading the region
0s / 29s
Experiences here
Astrolabes, manuscripts and a kiswah woven with gold thread, in a restored souk under a blue-tiled dome. The best single room in the country for understanding the region.
One of the oldest recorded human presences outside Africa, in a landscape of petrified dunes. Guides here are archaeologists, not drivers.
The oldest mangrove stand in the UAE, on the emirate's east-coast enclave. Kingfishers, turtles, and water flat enough to hear them.
The Gulf's largest heritage restoration, returning the old town to its 1950s footprint. Galleries stay open late and the lanes are cool by then.
Tickets
Sixteen museums, one ticket
Archaeologist-led tours extra
Where to stay
Inside the restoration district, with eleven museums and the creek within a fifteen-minute walk.
Free cancellation · 8 rooms left · 731 reviews
On the oldest mangrove stand in the country, on the Gulf of Oman side of the mountains.
Free cancellation · 4 rooms left · 342 reviews
Eat & drink
In a restored merchant's house in the heritage district; the saffron rice is the reason to book.
Tours that include it
One country, all seven emirates, anticlockwise from the capital so the mountains and the east coast come last.
Snoopy Island, Dibba Rock and Martini Rock in the clear-water season, with one day out of the water in the mountains.
The country at its most social, after sunset. Dates move with the lunar calendar, so departures are confirmed annually.
What's on
November
One of the largest book fairs in the world by footfall, with a fortnight of readings, translation deals and children's programming.
Entry to the fair is free. The programme of talks and workshops is open to fair visitors.
February
Projection works mapped onto mosques, museums and university façades across the emirate, free and after dark.
Free and outdoors: the projections are on public buildings across the emirate, and the route is walkable.
Spring, every other year
The exhibition that made the emirate a fixture on the international art calendar, spread across restored courtyard houses.
Entry to the exhibitions is free, across several venues; a few performances are ticketed.
People who were there
@bookfairdiary
Eleven days, four halls, and I still did not finish the translation pavilion.
Sharjah Book Fair · #SIBF
@fossildunes
Bronze Age tombs, and a guide who is an actual archaeologist.
Mleiha, Sharjah · #Mleiha
Continue the journey
The capital, at its own pace
Where the record is the baseline
Small emirate, long shoreline
The quiet one
Every emirate is within a day's drive of every other.